For every figure and miniature collector, the choice is always difficult and important. On one side, there's the strong appeal of resin prints, with their incredibly smooth surfaces and perfect detail. On the other side, there's the harsh reality of high costs, the messy workflow with chemicals, and the ongoing safety concerns that come with liquid materials. It's a trade-off many people have accepted without much choice.
For years, resin has been the clear winner for high-quality printing. But 3D printing technology is always changing. With major improvements in Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) technology, an important question comes up for 2025: can an affordable FDM printer, equipped with a thin 0.2mm nozzle, finally deliver quality that is "good enough" for picky figure collectors? Can it offer a way to save a lot of money without losing too much detail?
This guide provides a complete, side-by-side comparison to answer that question. We will examine print quality, the total cost of ownership, and the daily user experience. Our goal is to give you the information and insights needed to decide if switching to, or adding, an FDM printer is the right financial and practical choice for your hobby.
The Gold Standard: Why Resin Printing is the King of Detail
To understand the challenge FDM faces, we must first respect the current champion. Resin printing, technically a form of Stereolithography (SLA or, more commonly for consumers, MSLA), works on a completely different principle than FDM. It builds objects by shining UV light through a high-resolution screen into a container of liquid resin. The light carefully hardens the resin, layer by tiny layer, turning the liquid into a solid object.
This process is the source of its unmatched advantage in surface finish and resolution. Because it hardens an entire layer at once with pixel-level precision, the resulting surfaces are incredibly smooth. Visible layer lines, the obvious sign of most 3D printing, are almost completely eliminated. This allows resin printers to reproduce the most complex and subtle details that are absolutely critical for high-quality figures: the delicate curve of a facial expression, the fine texture of cloth or leather, and microscopic features on armor or jewelry.
For any collector or painter focused on achieving the highest possible quality, resin printing has long been, and remains, the benchmark. It is the gold standard against which any other technology hoping to produce high-detail figures must be measured.
The Challenger: Can a 0.2mm Nozzle Turn an FDM Printer into a Figure-Making Machine?
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) is the most common and recognizable form of 3D printing. It works by melting a solid plastic filament and pushing it through a heated nozzle, drawing the object one line at a time, layer by layer. Traditionally, this process has been fantastic for functional parts, prototypes, and larger models, but less so for fine-detail miniatures.
The game-changer in this equation is the 0.2mm nozzle. A standard FDM printer typically comes with a 0.4mm nozzle. By swapping this for a nozzle with an opening half that size, the printer can lay down much thinner lines of plastic. This directly translates to a significant increase in XY resolution, allowing the printer to render smaller details more accurately. Furthermore, these thinner plastic lines make the individual layers far less obvious, addressing the most common criticism of FDM for figure printing.
Of course, this comes with trade-offs. Pushing plastic through a smaller hole requires slower print speeds to maintain quality and prevent the extruder from overwhelming the nozzle. This also increases the risk of clogging, as even tiny impurities in the filament or dust can cause a blockage. However, the FDM printers of 2025 are a different breed. With more precise motion systems, advanced cooling solutions, and smarter software, printing with fine nozzles has become significantly more reliable and accessible than it was just a few years ago.
The Ultimate Showdown: A Practical Comparison for Figure Collectors
With the technologies defined, it's time to put them to the test in the areas that matter most to a figure collector: quality, cost, and convenience. We will conduct a head-to-head analysis, supported by visual evidence and hard numbers.
Factor 1: Print Quality & Detail Resolution
When comparing close-up photos of the same 3D model—say, a 32mm wargaming miniature and a larger 1/8 scale character bust—the differences are clear, but perhaps not as dramatic as one might expect.
For resin, the strengths are immediately apparent. It produces a flawless reproduction of organic shapes. Curved surfaces like skin, flowing hair, and delicate fabric are rendered with a smoothness that is unmatched. There is no visible layering, providing a perfect canvas for painters who rely on subtle washes and glazes. Microscopic details, like the pupils of an eye or the decoration on a pendant, are captured perfectly.
For FDM with a 0.2mm nozzle, the results are surprisingly detailed. It excels at models with hard surfaces, sharp edges, and geometric patterns. Armor plates, mechanical parts, and weaponry look crisp and well-defined. However, its primary weakness remains. On close inspection, especially before priming, fine layer lines are still visible. This is most noticeable on smooth, shallow curves like faces, shoulders, or limbs. This effect is reduced by printing at a very low layer height (e.g., 0.08mm to 0.12mm), but it cannot be eliminated entirely.
The verdict on quality is complex. Resin remains superior for absolute, competition-grade detail and perfectly smooth surfaces. It is the choice when every tiny detail matters. However, a well-tuned FDM printer with a 0.2mm nozzle achieves a "very good" to "excellent" quality. For many applications, especially once the model is primed and painted, the subtle layer lines on an FDM print can become nearly indistinguishable from its resin counterpart to the naked eye.
Factor 2: The True Cost of Printing (The "Money-Saving" Analysis)
This is where the argument for FDM becomes incredibly compelling. While print quality might be a close race, the financial comparison is a landslide.
| Cost Factor | Resin Printing | FDM Printing (0.2mm Nozzle) | Winner |
|---|---|---|---|
| Upfront Hardware | Entry-level printers are affordable, but a separate Wash & Cure station is highly recommended, adding to the cost. | Entry-level printers are often cheaper than a complete resin setup for a given build volume. | FDM |
| Consumables (Material) | Standard resin costs an average of $30-$50 per liter (1000g). | A 1kg spool of quality PLA/PLA+ filament costs $20-$30. | FDM |
| Cost Per Model | A 100g figure costs ~$4 in resin. | The same 100g figure costs ~$2.50 in PLA. | FDM |
| "Hidden" Consumables | Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) or other cleaners, nitrile gloves, paper towels, replacement FEP/ACF films, screen protectors, electricity for 2-3 devices. | Occasional nozzle replacements ($1-$5), electricity for one device. | FDM |
The upfront hardware cost for an entry-level machine of either type is comparable in 2025, though FDM often gives you more build volume for your money. The real story is in the ongoing costs.
Filament is substantially cheaper per gram than resin. A 1kg spool of high-quality PLA filament is often less expensive than a 1-liter bottle of standard resin. This cost advantage becomes massive over time, especially for collectors printing large figures or entire armies.
Beyond the raw material, the "hidden" costs of resin printing add up quickly. You will constantly be buying nitrile gloves, paper towels, and large quantities of Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) for cleaning. The FEP or ACF film at the bottom of the resin vat is a consumable that needs periodic replacement, as does the LCD screen over its lifespan. You also need to power not just the printer, but a separate wash and cure station. For FDM, the main hidden cost is the occasional nozzle replacement, which is trivial by comparison.
The verdict on cost is decisive. FDM is the undisputed winner for long-term, low-cost printing. The savings on materials and the near-elimination of mandatory secondary consumables make it a significantly more economical choice for the budget-conscious hobbyist.
Factor 3: Workflow, Safety, and "Hassle Factor"
Beyond quality and cost is the day-to-day reality of using the technology. This "hassle factor" is a major consideration for anyone printing in a home environment.
The resin workflow is a mandatory, multi-step process. After the print finishes, you must carefully remove the model from the build plate, which is dripping with toxic liquid resin. The part must then be thoroughly washed in a chemical bath (usually IPA) to remove all uncured resin. After washing, supports are typically removed—a delicate process with a still-fragile part. Finally, the cleaned model must be exposed to UV light in a curing station to achieve its final material properties.
This entire process demands a dedicated, well-ventilated space. Personal Protective Equipment (PPE), including nitrile gloves and safety glasses, is not optional. You are dealing with toxic chemicals and harmful organic compounds that require careful handling and disposal.
The FDM workflow is refreshingly simple by comparison. When the print is done, you remove the solid, non-toxic part from the build plate. The only remaining step is to remove the support structures. There is no chemical washing, no mandatory curing, and minimal post-processing required before you can begin priming and painting.
In terms of safety, FDM is significantly more safe. When printing with PLA, there are no toxic fumes to manage and no hazardous chemicals to handle. It is a much cleaner, more contained process that can be safely run in a typical room in your house without turning it into a miniature chemical lab.
The verdict here is another clear victory for FDM. It offers a vastly simpler, cleaner, and safer user experience, making it far more accessible for hobbyists who lack a dedicated workshop or wish to avoid the complexities and hazards of resin.
Factor 4: Durability and Material Variety
A figure's life doesn't end on the display shelf. For wargamers and collectors with curious children, durability is key.
Standard resins are notoriously brittle. While some "tough" or "ABS-like" resins offer improved impact resistance, the base material is prone to shattering if dropped. Delicate parts like swords, spears, or antennas can snap with very little force. Furthermore, continued exposure to ambient UV light can cause resin prints to become even more brittle over time. They are best suited for display pieces that are handled infrequently.
FDM prints, by contrast, are far more robust. The most common filament for figures, PLA (Polylactic Acid), is much more durable and impact-resistant than standard resin. A PLA figure can typically survive a fall from a table with no damage. This makes FDM an excellent choice for gaming miniatures that will be handled regularly. Beyond PLA, FDM offers access to a huge library of other materials like PETG or ABS, which provide even greater strength and flexibility.
The verdict on durability is a clear win for FDM. For any figure that will be played with, transported, or otherwise handled, FDM provides a level of resilience that standard resin cannot match.
Making the Call: When Can FDM Truly Replace Resin?
So, with FDM winning on cost, ease of use, and durability, and resin holding the crown for absolute quality, how do you choose? The decision comes down to your primary goals and what you're willing to trade off.
Choose Resin if:
* You are a competition-level painter or a perfectionist who requires a perfectly smooth, flawless canvas for your work.
* You primarily print very small-scale (e.g., 28mm or smaller) or incredibly intricate miniatures where every tiny detail is non-negotiable.
* You have a dedicated, well-ventilated workspace and are comfortable with the chemical handling and cleanup process.
* Your models are purely for display and will not be handled frequently.
Choose FDM (with a 0.2mm Nozzle) if:
* Your primary concern is budget. The cost-per-model savings are substantial and undeniable.
* You want a simpler, safer, and cleaner printing experience with minimal hassle and cleanup.
* You are printing larger scale figures (1/12 scale and up), where layer lines become even less noticeable and the material cost savings are magnified.
* You are "army painting" for wargames and need to produce durable, good-looking models in bulk without breaking the bank.
* You value durability above all else and want figures that can withstand handling, transport, and the occasional drop.
From Good to Great: Pro Tips for Printing Figures with a 0.2mm Nozzle
Switching to a 0.2mm nozzle on an FDM printer isn't quite plug-and-play. To achieve results that rival resin, you need to master your machine and your slicer.
Calibration is King: Before anything else, ensure your printer is perfectly calibrated. This means a carefully leveled bed, correct Z-offset, and tuned extruder settings (e-steps and flow rate). A fine nozzle is less forgiving of mechanical imperfections.
Master Your Slicer Settings:
* Layer Height: This is your most powerful tool for detail. Aim for a low layer height, typically between 0.08mm and 0.12mm.
* Print Speed: Slow is smooth, and smooth is fast (in terms of final quality). Small nozzles require slower print speeds to function reliably. Start around 30-40mm/s for outer walls and adjust from there.
* Retraction & Cooling: These settings are critical for preventing stringing and blobs on detailed models with lots of small features. Perform retraction and temperature tuning tests to dial them in perfectly for your specific filament.
Filament Matters: Not all filaments are created equal. Use a high-quality, reliable PLA or PLA+ filament. Most importantly, make sure your filament is dry. Moisture in the filament is a primary cause of poor quality and nozzle clogs.
Strategic Orientation: Think like a sculptor. Orient your models in the slicer to hide layer lines on less visible areas, such as the back of the figure, under clothing, or on surfaces that will be covered. Try to keep the most important surfaces, like the face, as vertical as possible to minimize stepping.
Smart Supports: Use modern support structures like tree or organic supports. They use less material, print faster, and are much easier to remove, leaving behind minimal scarring on the model's surface.
The Verdict: A Powerful Alternative, Not a Perfect Replacement
We return to our core question: in 2025, can an FDM printer with a small nozzle replace resin printing for figure collectors? For a significant and growing number of hobbyists, the answer is a resounding yes. It has firmly established itself as an incredibly cost-effective and practical alternative that produces truly excellent results.
To be clear, resin still holds the crown for absolute, flawless, microscopic detail. It remains the undisputed choice for the highest level of display art. However, a well-tuned FDM printer equipped with a 0.2mm nozzle dramatically closes the quality gap. It delivers fantastic detail while being overwhelmingly superior in cost, safety, durability, and ease of use.
The choice for collectors in 2025 no longer has to be a painful compromise. The two technologies can coexist and complement each other perfectly in a modern workshop. You can use a resin printer for your centerpiece hero characters and competition entries, while a workhorse FDM printer churns out durable armies, large-scale monsters, vehicles, and terrain at a fraction of the cost and hassle. The "good enough" quality of modern FDM is, for the vast majority of projects, more than good enough—it's great.