Choosing a budget 3D printer in 2025 creates an interesting puzzle. The Ender-3 V3 SE is a new model with a low price and lots of modern features. At the same time, the Ender-3 S1, which used to be expensive, now costs about the same. This makes it hard to choose for both beginners and experienced users. The V3 SE offers faster printing and a better filament system for less money than the S1 used to cost. This makes us wonder: what's the downside? Did the company make the V3 SE cheaper by using worse parts, or did they just find a better way to give customers value?
This article compares these two printers side by side. We won't say one is definitely better than the other. Instead, we'll help you understand how each printer is designed, what trade-offs they make, and how they actually perform. When you finish reading, you'll be able to make a smart choice based on what you need, how much you want to spend, and your long-term 3D printing goals.
Feature Comparison
A quick look at the specs shows two different ways to build an affordable workhorse printer.
| Feature | Ender-3 V3 SE | Ender-3 S1 |
|---|---|---|
| Release Year | 2023 | 2021 |
| Extruder | "Sprite" Direct Drive | "Sprite" Direct Drive |
| Max Print Speed (Typical) | 180-250 mm/s | 80-120 mm/s |
| Auto Leveling | CR-Touch + Strain Gauge (Auto Z-Offset) | CR-Touch (Manual Z-Offset) |
| Z-Axis | Single Z-axis lead screw | Dual Z-axis lead screws, synced with belt |
| Y-Axis Motion System | Dual linear rods | Single V-slot extrusion with pulley wheels |
| Display & UI | 3.2" Color Screen, Rotary Knob, New UI | 4.3" Color Screen, Rotary Knob, Classic UI |
| Build Surface | PC Spring Steel Sheet | PC Spring Steel Sheet |
| Assembly Time (Estimate) | ~20 minutes | ~45 minutes |
| Connectivity | SD Card | SD Card, USB-C |
| Firmware (Stock) | Creality OS (Marlin-based with Input Shaping) | Marlin-based |
Speed vs. Strong Build
The main difference between these printers is their basic design approach. One focuses on speed and automation, while the other focuses on strong mechanical construction.
V3 SE's Speed Focus
The Ender-3 V3 SE is built for speed right out of the box. Its ability to print reliably at speeds up to 250 mm/s isn't just one feature - it's the result of a complete system working together. The moving parts are guided by a single Z-axis screw, but the frame is rigid enough and the print head is light enough that a second screw isn't needed. More importantly, the Y-axis, which moves the bed back and forth, slides on two hardened steel rods. This system is more solid and has less wobble than the traditional wheel design, allowing for faster, more precise movements without causing vibration.
The other key part is the software. The V3 SE comes pre-set with features like Input Shaping, a technique that digitally cancels out printer vibrations. This lets the machine move faster without creating "ghosting" or "ringing" marks in the final print. The bottom line is simple: this printer is designed to make good quality prints quickly with very little setup needed.
S1's Strong Build Focus
The Ender-3 S1 represents the best of its generation's design. Its main feature is the dual Z-axis screw system, where two motors drive the moving parts up and down. These are kept in sync by a timing belt at the top, making sure the X-axis stays perfectly level at all times. This was a premium feature designed to eliminate wobbling and provide maximum stability, especially during tall prints.
Its movement system uses the proven V-slot aluminum rails with rubber wheels. This system is reliable, and its parts are widely available and easy to fix. The downside is that the wheels can wear out over time and need regular adjustment to stay tight. This design, while very stable, wasn't built for the high-speed printing that software improvements would later make possible. The key point here is a focus on mechanical precision and overbuilt construction, which was the mark of a high-quality printer in its time.
A Closer Look at the Extruder
Both printers come with the "Sprite" direct drive extruder, a feature that was a major selling point for the S1. Direct drive is a big advantage over older tube-fed systems because the short distance between the drive gears and the hot end gives much more precise control over the filament. This results in cleaner retractions and a much better ability to print with flexible materials like TPU.
However, not all "Sprite" extruders are the same. The versions on these two machines have an important difference in their heat capabilities. The V3 SE uses a standard, capable version of the Sprite with a PTFE-lined hot end. This means a small tube of Teflon runs down into the heat break. While perfectly fine for most materials, the PTFE tube begins to break down at temperatures above 240-250°C, limiting the printer to materials like PLA, PETG, and TPU.
The Ender-3 S1, and especially its Pro version, featured an all-metal version of the Sprite. This design removes the PTFE tube from the hot zone, allowing the hot end to safely reach temperatures of 300°C. This opens up the ability to print with high-temperature, engineering-grade materials such as ABS, ASA, and Nylon. For a user, this is an important distinction. If your printing plans are limited to standard filaments, the V3 SE's extruder is more than good enough. If you plan to experiment with more demanding materials, the S1's system offers a more direct path to high-temperature printing.
The Daily Experience
From the moment you open the box, the differences in daily use are clear. These day-to-day interactions are often more important than raw specs, especially for beginners.
Assembly and Setup
The V3 SE is designed for an almost appliance-like setup. It arrives mostly pre-built and can be put together in three main steps: attach the moving parts to the base, install the screen, and plug in the spool holder. Most users can go from unboxing to turning it on in under 20 minutes.
The S1, while still considered easy to assemble compared to older kits, follows a more step-by-step approach. You will attach the moving parts, extruder, screen, and spool holder in separate steps. It's a straightforward process with clear instructions, but it involves more screws and steps, typically taking around 45 minutes to an hour.
Automatic Leveling
Both printers use a CR-Touch probe for automatic bed leveling. The probe physically touches the bed at multiple points to create a digital map, compensating for any slight warps or tilts in the build surface. This feature alone eliminates one of the biggest headaches of older 3D printers.
However, the V3 SE takes automation a step further. In addition to the CR-Touch, it has a strain gauge sensor built into the print head. After the bed leveling process, the nozzle gently touches the bed, and the strain gauge detects the pressure to set the Z-offset automatically. This crucial step, which determines the perfect first-layer height, is completely hands-off.
On the S1, after the CR-Touch runs its cycle, the user must manually set the Z-offset. This involves the classic "paper method," where you lower the nozzle until a piece of paper just barely scrapes between it and the bed. While it works well, it's a manual process that can be tricky for beginners to get right. The V3 SE's fully automated process is a major improvement in ease of use.
Screen and Controls
The V3 SE features a 3.2-inch color screen with a modern, visual user interface. It provides helpful displays like a real-time temperature graph and a preview of the model being printed. You control it with a classic rotary knob.
The S1 uses a slightly larger 4.3-inch color screen, also controlled by a rotary knob. Its interface works well and will be familiar to anyone who has used a printer from that era, but it feels more text-based and less visually appealing compared to the V3 SE's updated display.
Build Quality and Design
This section directly addresses whether costs were cut or simply managed differently. A close look at the physical parts reveals a shift in manufacturing approach.
The Z-Axis Choice
The most obvious difference is the Z-axis. The S1's dual-motor, belt-synced setup is mechanically superior in terms of pure stability. It's an overbuilt, robust solution. The V3 SE's single Z-axis motor might seem like a downgrade, but it should be viewed as a deliberate design choice. By using a more rigid frame structure and a lighter print head assembly, the V3 SE's moving parts are less likely to sag on the unsupported side. For 95% of printing tasks, this single-screw design works perfectly well and simplifies the machine, reducing cost and potential failure points. The dual-motor setup of the S1 primarily offers an advantage to tinkerers who plan to add significant weight to the print head, such as with heavy custom cooling parts or other modifications.
Build Plate Surface
Both the standard V3 SE and S1 models come with a PC (Polycarbonate) coated spring steel build plate. This surface offers excellent sticking power for materials like PLA and PETG when heated, and prints pop off easily once the plate cools. It's a flexible sheet that can be removed and bent to release stubborn parts. It's worth noting that a common and popular upgrade for the S1 family was a PEI (Polyetherimide) sheet, which offers even better durability and sticking properties, especially for higher-temperature materials.
Looks and Materials
The two printers look like they're from different time periods. The S1 has an industrial look, built from standard aluminum rails and sheet metal brackets. It looks like a machine tool. The V3 SE has a much sleeker, more consumer-friendly appearance. It uses more custom-molded plastic parts for the base and top of the moving assembly. This isn't necessarily a sign of lower quality, but a shift in manufacturing. Injection molding is very cost-effective at high volumes and allows for more integrated, streamlined designs.
Community and Upgrades
A printer's value goes far beyond its out-of-the-box performance. The support ecosystem and potential for upgrades are important long-term considerations.
Community and Support
Having been on the market for several years, the Ender-3 S1 has a huge and mature user community. Online, you can find countless troubleshooting guides, video tutorials, and forum discussions for nearly any problem you might encounter. Pre-made settings for alternative software, like Klipper, are abundant and well-documented.
The V3 SE, being the newer machine, has a community that is growing rapidly but is less established. It benefits from being the new "default" recommendation for many, so beginner resources are plentiful. However, documentation for deep-level modifications or advanced troubleshooting is not as comprehensive as it is for the S1.
The Upgrade Path
The Ender-3 S1 is a tinkerer's dream. It was built on a platform that is well-understood and highly modular. There is a vast market of third-party upgrades available, from PEI build plates and all-metal hot ends to silent fans and complete linear rail conversion kits. It's a platform that invites you to learn, modify, and grow with it.
The V3 SE, by contrast, is designed to be a more "complete package" experience. Its strong out-of-the-box performance means fewer upgrades are necessary to get great prints. While modifications are certainly possible, the use of more custom parts and a less standardized frame makes it a less straightforward platform for heavy modding. It's a printer for those who want to print, not necessarily to tinker.
Your Decision Guide
We won't recommend one printer over the other. Instead, use this guide to determine which machine's approach matches your personal priorities.
You might prefer the Ender-3 S1 if...
- ...You enjoy tinkering, modding, and upgrading your hardware as a hobby in itself.
- ...You prioritize mechanical strength and the stability of a dual Z-axis system over maximum speed.
- ...You plan to print with high-temperature materials like ABS or Nylon and value the S1's easier path to an all-metal hot end.
- ...You find a significant discount on a new or used unit, making its specific features a compelling value.
You might prefer the Ender-3 V3 SE if...
- ...Your primary goal is to start 3D printing as quickly and easily as possible with minimal setup.
- ...You value print speed and modern automation features like auto Z-offset over ultimate customizability.
- ...You primarily plan to print with standard materials like PLA, PETG, and occasional TPU.
- ...You want a "set it and forget it" experience and prefer a modern, streamlined machine.
Smart Evolution, Not Cut Corners
In the final analysis, the Ender-3 V3 SE is not a "cheaper" or "compromised" version of the S1. It represents a smart evolution in design, reflecting the market's shift in priorities. The company has strategically reallocated the manufacturing budget. Instead of spending it on an overbuilt mechanical frame like the S1's dual Z-axis, they invested it in features that deliver a better out-of-the-box experience: speed-enabling hardware like linear rods, and time-saving automation like a fully automatic leveling process.
The Ender-3 S1 remains a formidable and capable workhorse, a testament to the peak of its design generation. The choice in 2025 is not about which printer is objectively "better." It's about deciding which design philosophy—proven, tinkerer-friendly strength versus modern, streamlined efficiency—is the right fit for your personal journey into 3D printing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Ender-3 S1 outdated?
Not at all. For a user who values its specific features, like the belt-synced dual Z-axis for maximum stability or its vast modding potential, it remains an excellent and proven platform. Its reliability and huge community knowledge base are significant advantages.
Is the V3 SE's single Z-axis a problem?
For the vast majority of users and standard printing tasks, no. The frame and moving parts are designed to be rigid enough to prevent sagging, and the lighter print head reduces stress. It only becomes a potential consideration for advanced users who plan to add significant weight to the print head with heavy custom modifications.
Can the Ender-3 V3 SE print TPU?
Yes. Thanks to its "Sprite" direct drive extruder, the filament path is very short and controlled. This gives it excellent control over flexible filaments like TPU, a task that is very difficult for older tube-fed printers.
What is a common first upgrade for an S1?
Many Ender-3 S1 owners choose to install Klipper software. This alternative software can unlock significantly higher print speeds and advanced control features. Another popular and simple upgrade is swapping the stock PC build plate for a PEI-coated spring steel sheet for enhanced sticking power and durability.